The Guardian
Yemen Heaven, York: ‘Very hard not to like’ – restaurant review 2 février 2025 à 07:00

Yemen Heaven, York: ‘Very hard not to like’ – restaurant review

Par : Jay Rayner

2 février 2025 à 07:00

After a troubled start, this family-run Yemeni outpost in York has won a loving following in the local community

Yemen Heaven, 98 Walmgate, York YO1 9TL. Meze £7, large dishes £15-£21.95, desserts £6-£9, wines from £23

Some restaurants are just a nice place to go for dinner. Yemen Heaven in York is obviously that. You will eat well there. The black seeded flatbreads, the breadth of over-sized dinner plates, are soft and crisp. There’s a pleasing creaminess to the spice-dusted, oil-dribbled, tahini-rich hummus that comes topped with a single shiny black olive, the savoury equivalent of a cherry on top. But the restaurant is more than that. Much like Arabic Flavour in Aberystwyth, which I visited last year, it is both the story of exile and an act of memory. It is the product of one woman’s determination to maintain her family’s traditions; to free the country of her birth from a single narrative of war and hardship, however overwhelming that narrative might seem right now.

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The Guardian
Allegra McEvedy: ‘Cooking saved my life’ 1 février 2025 à 15:00

Allegra McEvedy: ‘Cooking saved my life’

The Guardian

Par : Rachel Corcoran

1 février 2025 à 15:00

The chef, 54, talks about her foodie mum, historian dad, troubled teenage years and and being appointed MBE

I was a happy kid, president of the school at 11, then went on to St Paul’s Girls’ School. I was supposed to be a barrister, because I was good at chat and liked debating. Mum was the foodie. We were always making things in the kitchen while my sister was in the garden.

I went to every outpost of the Roman Empire as a kid. My dad [Colin McEvedy] was a psychiatrist, but his love was history; he sold a million copies of his history books. Holidays were going to see a mausoleum, measuring cannonballs in a castle in Istanbul, clambering over rocks. I didn’t have a beach holiday until I was 28.

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