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How to make the perfect butter paneer – recipe | Felicity Cloake's How to make the perfect …

Which versions of this much-loved and widely adapted rich vegetarian curry will be distilled into the perfect take?

This luxuriantly rich, vegetarian curry – a cousin of butter chicken, which is thought to have been created in the postwar kitchens of Delhi’s Moti Mahal, though by whom is the subject of hot dispute – is, according to chef Vivek Singh, “the most famous and widely interpreted dish in India”. His fellow chef Sanjeev Kapoor describes it as “one of the bestselling dishes in restaurants” there, but here in the UK, though it’s no doubt widely enjoyed, it seems to fly somewhat under the radar on menus, where even the chicken original plays second fiddle to our beloved chicken tikka masala.

If you haven’t yet fallen for the crowdpleasing charms of fresh cheese in a mild tomato sauce, consider this a strong suggestion to give it a whirl. Paneer makhni (makhni being the Hindi word for butter, hence also dal makhni), tastes incredibly fancy, but it’s relatively simple and quick to make. Just add bread and a vegetable side to turn it into a full feast.

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© Photograph: Robert Billington/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Ezekiel.

© Photograph: Robert Billington/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Ezekiel.

© Photograph: Robert Billington/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Ezekiel.

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Fluffy and fabulous! 17 ways with marshmallows – from cheesecake to salad to an espresso martini

They come into their own around Thanksgiving in the US, used alongside savoury dishes, as well as in desserts. Now is the time to try them with sweet potatoes, in a strawberry mousse, or even with soup

The connection between marsh mallow the herbaceous perennial, also known as althaea officinalis, and marshmallow the puffy cylindrical sweet, is historic. In the 19th century, the sap of the plant was still a key ingredient of its confectionary namesake, along with sugar and egg whites. But that connection has long been severed: the modern industrial marshmallow is derived from a mixture of sugar, water and gelatine. Its main ingredient is air.

But there’s a lot you can do with the humble marshmallow – here are 17 examples.

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© Photograph: JasonDoiy/Getty Images

© Photograph: JasonDoiy/Getty Images

© Photograph: JasonDoiy/Getty Images

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Meera Sodha’s vegan recipe for gochujang and tofu ragu with gnocchi and pickled cucumber | The new vegan

A comforting and filling mix of Korean and Italian flavours and textures that’s ideal for weeknight dinner

  • Share your questions for Meera Sodha, Tim Dowling and Stuart Heritage for a special Guardian Live event on Wednesday 26 November.

I am a ragu-fancier and a kheema fanatic. Unlike with most foods, however, it doesn’t do to rationalise this love for ragu, because it is a mash of things chopped up so small that they all lose their texture. This might sound a bit woo-woo, but the joy of ragu comes from feeling your way through it, from the chopping and standing with your thoughts, to stirring a bubbling pot and the smell creeping under the door. A ragu isn’t just a ragu, it’s a coming-together of good things: thoughts, feelings, ingredients, time and effort.

Join Meera Sodha at a special event celebrating the best of Guardian culture on Wednesday 26 November, hosted by Nish Kumar and alongside writers Stuart Heritage and Tim Dowling, with Georgina Lawton hosting You Be The Judge live. Live in London or via livestream, book tickets here.

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© Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Kydd. Prop styling: Anna Wilkins. Food styling assistant: Laura Lawrence.

© Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Kydd. Prop styling: Anna Wilkins. Food styling assistant: Laura Lawrence.

© Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian. Food styling: Emily Kydd. Prop styling: Anna Wilkins. Food styling assistant: Laura Lawrence.

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Alice Zaslavsky’s recipe for garlic red peppers with a creamy white bean dip, AKA papula

Slivers of garlicky red pepper on a creamy Balkan white bean dip known as papula

This week, I’ve been putting the finishing touches on an interview I recorded with legendary Australian cheesemaker Richard Thomas, the inventor of an ingredient you may not even realise is Australian: marinated feta, AKA “Persian fetta”. An unexpected stop on a trip to Iran in the 1970s gifted Thomas a chance meeting with a Persian doctor and his breakfast: fresh labneh with soft, still-warm lavash. It was a revelation. On his return, Thomas got to work creating a fresh cheese from goat’s milk (similar to chèvre) and from cow’s milk, marinated and preserved in oil, with an extra “t” to avert confusion with the Greek-style feta, that’s still being utilised by cooks and chefs right across the world.

Persian fetta is a shapeshifter, capable of remaining both firm and steadfast when crumbled across the top of a platter or salad, and of yielding to a soft, velvety cream, enhancing all manner of dishes from pasta to pesto to whipped dips and schmears – and, of course, as a topping for that Aussie cafe staple, avocado toast.

Alice Zaslavsky is a Guardian Australia food columnist

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© Photograph: Alice Zavlasky/PR

© Photograph: Alice Zavlasky/PR

© Photograph: Alice Zavlasky/PR

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Fish, cheese or chicken? Ravinder Bhogal’s recipes for warming winter pies

Fish pie gets a tropical reboot, or try a cold-busting filo chicken pie or a wholesome supergreens and cheese pie

When the temperature takes a nosedive, few things compete with a just-baked pie. Don’t be daunted by social media images of perfect, artistic ones; a pie will taste just as good whether it’s rustically homespun or exactingly decorated and carved. Ultimately, what is more important is the integrity of the ingredients (both the casing and the filling). As pastry or potatoes are such a large part of the equation, invest in the best, and make sure puff pastry is all butter and filo is generously lubricated with melted butter. And, if you’re serving your pie with mash, you want it lump-free, properly seasoned and enriched with butter and cream.

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© Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian. Food and prop styling: Florence Blair. Food assistant: Emma Cantlay.

© Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian. Food and prop styling: Florence Blair. Food assistant: Emma Cantlay.

© Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian. Food and prop styling: Florence Blair. Food assistant: Emma Cantlay.

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I’m vegetarian, he’s a carnivore: what can I cook that we’ll both like? | Kitchen aide

Mushrooms again come to the rescue for that meaty mouthfeel, but our panel also recommends the savoury flavours of Asia to sate those umami cravings

I’m a lifelong vegetarian, but my boyfriend is a dedicated carnivore. How can I cook to please us both?
Victoria, by email
“I have three words for you, Victoria,” says Anna Ansari, author of Silk Roads, who grew up in a predominantly vegetarian household: “Di si xian.” Typical of northern China, this stir-fry of aubergine, potato and peppers (otherwise known as the “three treasures”) is laced with soy, Shoaxing wine, white pepper, sugar, cornflour and, in Ansari’s case, doubanjiang. She also adds tofu (the fourth treasure, if you will) for “a rounded, one-pot/wok dinner” to eat with steamed rice. “It reminds me of being a teenager in Beijing, far from home and in need of warmth and comfort,” she says, and we could all do with some of that right now. “It’s also cheap as proverbial chips, not to mention quick to make, and it will knock both your socks off. Promise.”

Mushrooms could also pave the way to harmonious dining. “Surely they’re the closest thing to a natural meat substitute,” says Zak Hitchman, chef/owner of Other in Bristol. He’d be inclined to layer them up in a lasagne: “Slice a load of mixed mushrooms [chestnut, shiitake, oyster], then saute them in oil and butter with some seasoning.” Next, fry onion, garlic, celery, diced carrot, maybe some rosemary or thyme, until softened, then return the cooked mushrooms to the pot with some tinned tomatoes and tomato puree. “You could bulk it out with tinned lentils,” he says, but either way be sure to include a splash of soy and some miso for “that meaty flavour”, plus any vinegar you have knocking around “for balance”. Cook slowly until reduced, then layer between dried lasagne sheets. “Top that with bechamel [or simply dollop on some mascarpone] and lots of grated parmesan [a vegetarian one, if need be]. Drizzle with olive oil and bake until the pasta is soft, the sauce bubbling and the top golden.”

Got a culinary dilemma? Email feast@theguardian.com

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© Photograph: Issy Croker/The Guardian

© Photograph: Issy Croker/The Guardian

© Photograph: Issy Croker/The Guardian

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José Pizarro’s recipe for braised lamb and kale cazuela with beans

This warming casserole is melt-in-your-mouth tender, and comes with velvety white beans to soak up the rich meaty juices

My mum, Isabel, has always cooked slowly. Life on the family farm was busy, so a pot of lamb would often be bubbling away while she worked and, by the time we all sat down for lunch, the whole house smelled incredible. November takes me straight back there. It is the month for food that warms you, dishes made to sit in the centre of the table and to bring everyone close. Lamb shoulder loves a slow cook, turning soft and rich, especially when cooked with alubias blancas (white beans) to soak up the sauce, while a good splash of oloroso gives it a deeper, rounder flavour than any red wine ever could.

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© Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian. Food and prop styling: Florence Blair. Food assistant: Emma Cantlay.

© Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian. Food and prop styling: Florence Blair. Food assistant: Emma Cantlay.

© Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian. Food and prop styling: Florence Blair. Food assistant: Emma Cantlay.

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