Forget all the artisanal cheese. French crisps are absolutely depraved | Emma Beddington
A trip to the supermarché this Christmas opened my eyes to crisps flavoured with Flemish stew, salted butter and other flagrant crimes
I spent Christmas in France, which was on its best behaviour: tasteful, twinkling lights, market stalls stacked with exquisitely fresh fruit and vegetables, and enough cheeses to coat the entire Channel Tunnel with arterial plaque, piled platters of glistening shellfish on ice glimpsed through fogged brasserie windows. As I watched a long but orderly queue of well-dressed citizens collecting their artisanal Bûche de Noël (yule log) I thought, disloyally, that my home town of York, which becomes a modern reimagining of Hogarth’s Gin Lane at this time of year with mince-pie flavoured vapes and BuzzBallz, could learn a few lessons.
But all this “art de vivre” stuff is just an elegant facade – France is as prey to its basest appetites as the rest of us. Just go into a supermarket and you’ll see. The crisp aisle is an absolute sink of depravity, stacked with the likes of blue cheese, falafel, Flemish stew and salted butter flavours. Who eats butter crisps? It’s like something from one of those American fairs where they deep fry sticks of butter (the comedian Tatty Macleod recently claimed they’re the best crisps she’s ever tasted, but she’s obviously fallen victim to some kind of Breton brainwashing – she grew up in Brittany).
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© Photograph: mrs/Getty Images

© Photograph: mrs/Getty Images

© Photograph: mrs/Getty Images