Years of hollowed out shops, safety worries and stalled leadership have left the famed coastal city searching for a way back

Santa Monica is a city that would seem to have everything. A glorious, wide sandy beach. A fabled pier framed by palm trees and views of the southern California mountains. An aura of Hollywood magic, with a native honor roll that runs from Shirley Temple to Sean Penn. Streets that smell like the Mediterranean, filled with restaurants, cafes and interesting one-off shops.

And yet, for the past several years, almost nothing has gone right for a beach resort known and envied in the Los Angeles area for its beauty, its excellent public schools, and a progressive political culture that has sought to keep the city accessible and affordable to people of all income levels.