The contrast of hot, sticky chilli with the sweet, ripe mango and tomatoes is extraordinary

Thinly slice 2 large tomatoes – I use beefsteak – and put them in a mixing bowl. Scrub, peel and very thinly slice a couple of small beetroot (a golden or candy-stripe variety is a colourful addition, but any sweet beet will do). Add to the bowl with the tomato.

Peel 1 medium-sized, ripe mango. Cut thin slices of flesh from each side of the stone and add them to the mixing bowl. Squeeze the fruit in your fist into the bowl to extract as much juice as possible, then discard the stone.

I like to eat this as soon as it is dressed, to get the mixture of hot, cold, sweet and sour.

In hot weather, I have been known to swap the beetroot for cucumber, peeled and thickly sliced and, on occasions, have tossed in a few cooked prawns and a big handful of coriander.

Spicy noodles and delicate dessert for these see-saw days

In tune with the changeable weather, dinners this week have veered between substantial winter casseroles and lighter, more uplifting dishes. A typical dinner was one of a spicy noodle dish glowing red with chilli followed by a pale and gently flavoured panna cotta. A sort of whip-and-kiss effect that followed that of the week’s see-saw between icy mornings and blissful afternoons with the sun on our backs.

I used two hits of chilli for the noodles – a thick, brick-red Korean paste in which to toss the strings of noodles hot from their steaming water and then flakes of dried chilli added to the breadcrumbs I used to finish the dish. A double hit of chilli, but still producing an effect that was warm and aromatic, rather than blow-your-socks-off hot.