Nutritional yeast is a great sub for that tangy flavour, nuts are good for building texture and read on for a wily trick with leeks …

I love cheese sauce, but I’m now plant-based. Are there any easy alternatives? I don’t want to use too many processed foods.
Mike Davies, chef/owner of The Camberwell Arms in London, says he discovered “the dark arts” of plant-based “cheese” sauce from his wife, Bonita, who happens to be both vegan and a chef. The simple answer, he says, is to make a vegan bechamel, which can be achieved in one of two ways. The first comes courtesy of Bonita herself: “She makes a roux with plant-based gear, then flavours it with nutritional yeast to get those cheesy, umami vibes.” You can then adulterate this further, be that with some mustard powder (as Davies’ mother does), a grating of nutmeg or a pinch of cayenne.

A roux is also Katy Beskow’s preferred route, especially when a lasagne or cauliflower cheese are in play: “I use a basic method,” says the author of Vegan Pantry. “Take 50g vegan butter and 50g flour, and make a roux in the usual way. Add some oat milk, then, once that’s nice and thick, add nutritional yeast.” Yes, oat milk and vegan butter are processed foods, Beskow concedes, so look for ones with a low number of ingredients.

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